The 54th Pula Film Festival running from 12th to 21st July in the historic Istrian city brings crowds of cheery Croatians to alfresco screenings in what must be Europe's most magical "cinema"- the majestic Arena constructed by the Emperor Vespasian for his mistress more than 1900 years ago.Here unreel the latest new Croatian films,competing for Golden Arena trophies and represented by delegations of film-makers who then can enjoy the latest international movies as late-night previews-and so far the barriers went up for the premiere of Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix when a record 8,000 tickets were sold,and there simply was not any room to let in any more spectators!

With daytime temperatures here fast approaching 40 degrees Celsius,my loyal readers will understand if at a cooller time I send a fuller report on this marvellously regenerated event, which under Tito was unquestionably the major festival in former Yugoslavia, and which this year has programmed an international competitive section of films reflecting the search for love.The festival was inaugurated in aptly elegant style by Greta Scacchi.

Phillip Bergson